Mvita Grill - Nyali Beach  



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Coastweek - - I suppose one can attribute it to fashion, but have you noticed that whenever a group of people sits together and is happily of one accord about a particular subject, there will always be one miserable naysayer who takes great glee in tossing a conversational hand grenade and expressing an entirely contrary opinion ?

The objective to stimulate controversy and see how many people will perform an ideological 180 degree turn ultimately to agree with the "tosser".

And so it is that I have on more than one occasion heard people loudly declaim:

"Oh, I've never had even a half decent meal at the Mvita Grill".

I can't understand this myself, writes NOSHER.

With the exception of one Valentine's night about six years ago when everything from soup to nuts went hysterically wrong, I've never had a bad meal there.

But, as some M.P.s are wont to say, I must declare an interest.

If the Mvita Grill served only baked beans from a bucket garnished with dead badger, it would still be up there amongst my favourites for the very good reason that it has the best band and the best music anywhere on the Coast.

I could listen to Ed Silveira and his band endlessly, and the combination of the music, ambience and food make the Mvita Grill a very special place.

Mrs. Nosher and I quite often go there a deux, and as Mrs. N remarked this is one of the few restaurants which has "girls menus" i.e. menus with no prices.

Something which must encourage the sale of lobsters to female diners.

On our last visit we started with smoked marlin and a soufflé.

Unfortunately the smoked fish was crumbly and dry and not very enjoyable whereas the soufflé was absolutely perfect in every respect.

I understand that in this humid climate it's not always easy to turn out a good soufflé, but this was firm and pert ... oh ! and tasty apparently.

Starters swiftly dealt with we had the "palate cleanser"; a silky smooth citrus sorbet and then were given the option of the salad before or with the main course.

We dispensed with the salad altogether and went straight for the mains.

I chose the Surf and Turf; essentially lobster and chicken flambéed with a mushroom sauce.

Now some people (foodies mainly) think that if you're going to mix seafood and meat you may as well start eating chocolate and anchovy log, sardine and apricot yoghort and round it all off with gorgonzola and raspberry parfait.

But I think it's okay, and it's fun to watch the waiter doing the flambéing.

Our waiter Pius, is obviously the main man when it comes to flambees: he's as bald as a billiard ball and smolders.

Not really.

My beloved went for the fillets of red snapper and declared it an excellent if rather large dish.

In fact the main course portions are rather large and so dinner at the Mvita Grill should be an unhurried affair.

The pudding trolley is always worth a look; not necessarily for the desserts but for the design of the trolley, which looks like something Kenya Railways used for line maintenance work in the early '50s.

Puds are not a Mvita Grill strong point and I feel they would be better to concentrate on a smaller, nicer choice. Nevertheless we went for apple pie and brandy snaps, which Mrs. Nosh said were filled with fake cream tasting like sweet shaving foam.

I am still wondering how she knows this taste.

We drank a bottle of French wine for a change, and then resorted to perfectly acceptable house wine by the glass as we sat and digested and let Ed's musical magic wash over us.

Aaah !






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